Mortgage Calculator
Estimate what a house actually costs each month — principal and interest, plus the property tax, insurance, and mortgage insurance that most quotes leave out.
Why the payment is bigger than the quote
Mortgage quotes advertise principal and interest. The amount that leaves your account each month is usually a good deal larger, because the lender also collects property tax and homeowners insurance — and, if your deposit was under a fifth of the price, mortgage insurance too.
This calculator puts all of it in one figure, which is the number worth comparing against your budget.
Reading the results
Two figures deserve attention beyond the monthly total.
The first is total interest. Over thirty years it is often comparable to the price of the house itself. That is the cost of borrowing across three decades, and it is the number that changes most when rates or terms move.
The second is the escrow portion — tax and insurance. Unlike principal and interest, it is not fixed. Property assessments rise, premiums rise, and your payment rises with them even on a fixed-rate mortgage. Budgeting as though the whole payment is locked for thirty years is a common and expensive mistake.
How the pieces are calculated
Principal and interest come from the amortization formula applied to the price less your down payment, at one twelfth of the annual rate, over the number of months in the term.
Property tax and insurance are annual figures divided by twelve. In practice the lender holds these in an escrow account and pays the bills when they fall due, which is why they appear in the monthly payment rather than as separate invoices.
Private mortgage insurance applies when the down payment is under 20%. It is charged as an annual percentage of the loan balance, divided by twelve. This calculator applies it for the whole term, which overstates the later years — see the limitations below.
A worked example
A $420,000 home with $63,000 down — exactly 15% — at 6.4% over thirty years. The loan is $357,000, giving principal and interest of about $2,233 a month.
Add $5,040 of annual property tax ($420 a month), $1,800 of insurance ($150), and PMI at 0.6% on the balance ($178), and the real monthly cost is around $2,981. The gap between the quoted $2,233 and the actual $2,981 is the entire point of this calculator.
The 20% threshold
Reaching a 20% down payment removes mortgage insurance, which is pure cost — it protects the lender, not you. In the example above it costs $178 a month, over $2,100 a year, buying the borrower nothing.
If you are close to the threshold, compare the two scenarios here. Sometimes delaying a purchase to cross 20% saves more than the extra deposit costs. Sometimes it does not, particularly if prices or rates are moving against you.
What this does not include
- Closing costs. Typically a few percent of the price, paid up front, and not part of the monthly figure.
- PMI removal. Mortgage insurance normally ends once you reach roughly 20% equity, but it is kept for the full term here, so your real total is lower than shown.
- Rising costs. Tax and insurance are held flat. Both usually rise.
- Adjustable rates. This assumes the rate never changes.
- Maintenance. Not a mortgage cost, but a real one — a common rule of thumb is 1% of the home's value a year.
- Tax deductions. Mortgage interest may be deductible if you itemize. Our federal income tax calculator can show whether itemizing beats the standard deduction for you.
Frequently asked questions
How much house can I afford?
Lenders commonly look for total housing costs at or below about 28% of gross monthly income, and total debt payments below roughly 36%. Those are guidelines, not rules, and they say nothing about what is comfortable.
Work backwards: decide what monthly figure you are content with, then adjust the price here until the total payment matches it. Use the total, not principal and interest.
What exactly is PMI, and can I avoid it?
Private mortgage insurance protects the lender if you default. It is charged to you and provides you no benefit.
It is normally required below a 20% down payment and can usually be cancelled once you reach about 20% equity, either by paying down the balance or through appreciation. Some loan types handle it differently, so ask your lender how and when yours ends.
Is a 15-year mortgage better than a 30-year?
A 15-year term carries a higher payment and dramatically less total interest — often less than half. Whether that is better depends on whether the higher payment leaves you room for everything else, including an emergency fund.
Run both terms here and compare total interest against the monthly difference.
Does an extra payment each month really make much difference?
On a thirty-year loan, yes. Extra amounts go entirely to principal, removing both that debt and all the future interest it would have accrued. A modest monthly addition can cut years off the term.
Enter an amount in the extra payment field to see the effect on your own numbers.
Why did my payment go up on a fixed-rate mortgage?
Almost always escrow. Your principal and interest are fixed, but the property tax and insurance collected alongside them are not. When an assessment or premium rises, the lender adjusts the escrow portion accordingly.
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This calculator is provided for general educational and estimation purposes only. It does not constitute financial, lending, or real estate advice, and it is not a loan offer or a pre-approval. Property tax and insurance vary by location and change over time. Confirm all figures with your lender and local tax authority before relying on them.